A Review of the presentation of the winter collection Lena Hoschek`s  „The Scots“ Thursday, 14 November 2024 at Lena Hoschek Flagship Store.

(Photos: Wolfgang Geissler, Wolfgang Menth-Chiari, Sabine Schmidt-First, Michelle Ditrich)

By Wolfgang Geissler

It’s an iron rule in the Austro-British Society, although you won’t find it written down anywhere: if the invitation is in English, then the report that follows must also be in English, even if the presentation, as happened last night, was entirely in German. Therefore, reading this in English, dear reader, may be your first surprise. The second surprise for all of us was the warm and generous welcome extended to visitors at Lena Hoschek’s flagship store on Seilergasse 16. Not only were attendants on standby to take care of coats and hats, but guests were also promptly served La Gioiosa Etamorosa Prosecco Spumante Rosé Brut — a pale pink, high-quality Prosecco from the Veneto region, renowned for its sparkling wines. This delightful beverage continued to flow throughout the evening! The third surprise, though only for those who hadn’t read the invitation, was that there were no canapés.

In the elegant setting of her flagship store, Lena Hoschek presented her latest autumn/winter collection, “The Scots”. The event, attended exclusively by members of the Austro-British Society, seamlessly combined Austrian style with a nod to Scottish tradition.

Prof. Dr. Kurt Tiroch opened the evening with a warm welcome, noting the strong turnout and commending Lena Hoschek’s choice to draw on Scottish influences. In a light-hearted manner, Dr. Tiroch commented on the lengthy planning process, which had spanned over a year and involved numerous rescheduled dates for various reasons. He emphasised the importance of finally bringing the event to fruition, setting an upbeat mood for Lena Hoschek’s presentation.

Lena Hoschek began by thanking the audience and shared the story behind “The Scots”. The inspiration came two years ago during a trip to the Scottish Highlands, where the dramatic landscape left a lasting impression. The deaths of Vivienne Westwood, her mentor and teenage idol, as well as Queen Elizabeth II, who had a deep connection to Scotland, further influenced her decision to centre the collection around Scottish themes. Hoschek paid tribute to these figures, reflected in the gothic romance and Scottish heritage evident in tartan dresses, corsets, and black velvet garments accented with lace.

Hoschek highlighted her longstanding partnership with British suppliers, particularly Harris Tweed. This handwoven fabric, produced in the Outer Hebrides from pure virgin wool, is renowned for its quality and heritage. For over a century, the skills needed to create Harris Tweed have been passed down through generations. In 2017, a marketing agreement was established between Marzotto Wool Manufacturing — Estethia G.B. Conte Division — and Harris Tweed Hebrides, making Estethia the exclusive distributor of Harris Tweed fabrics across Europe, excluding the UK. The partnership aims to expand the collection by leveraging Marzotto’s market expertise and the craftsmanship of the Harris Tweed team.

However, geopolitical challenges such as Brexit and the Ukraine conflict have disrupted supply chains, leading to delays in the availability of several items. Hoschek acknowledged these issues but expressed optimism that the pieces would arrive before Christmas. She thanked her customers for their patience and reiterated her commitment to maintaining high standards.

Addressing the financial difficulties of her company, including a recent insolvency filing, Hoschek spoke openly about the challenges. Despite these setbacks, she noted surprisingly strong sales in recent weeks, which she attributed to the loyalty of her clients and the quality of the collection. Hoschek emphasised that her designs are not intended for mass production but represent “a piece of Europe”, reflecting a dedication to traditional craftsmanship.

Prof. Dr. Tiroch concluded the event with a note of thanks and well-wishes for Hoschek as she faces the road ahead. The audience responded warmly, clearly appreciative of the designer’s candid remarks and the depth of her presentation. I hope that I have captured the spirit of the event in my photo series, with additional contributions from Wolfgang Menth Chiari, Sabine Schmidt-First, and Michelle Ditrich.

On our way home, we passed Peter Bichler’s pop-up store, House of Scotland, conveniently located just a few steps from Lena Hoschek’s flagship. It brought to mind our conversation at the event, where Peter, also a guest, confided that he already has an intriguing topic in mind for his talk next year. Certainly something to look forward to!

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